DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sea Light

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables, lace pattern and rib in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 161-3
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-035
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 08, ice blue

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-750-850 g colour no 14, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.12. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Piece is worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 115-123-133-143-165-177 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light or Belle. Work rib as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work the last 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in A.11, A.1 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, A.2, A.3 1 time, A.1 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in width, A.2, A.5 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in width, A.4, A.2, A.5 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, work the first 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in A.12, 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue like this until diagrams have been worked vertically = 113-121-129-139-159-171 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work pattern as follows with 1 st in garter st in each side: 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in stocking st, A.6 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, A.7, A.10 0-0-0-1-1-1 time in width, A.8, A.7, A.9, A.6 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in width, A.7, A.10 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in stocking st. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, cast off the first 5-9-5-10-12-18 sts on the next 2 rows for armholes = 103-103-119-119-135-135 sts. Continue pattern as before inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side. NOTE: There is no room for the 2 outermost sts with pattern in each side. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm (adjust after 1 whole repetition vertically), cast off sts for neck as follows: Work the first 30-30-38-38-46-46 sts, cast off the next 43 sts and work the remaining 30-30-38-38-46-46 sts. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: NOTE: Work the sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st and work edge sts towards the neck in garter st. On next row from neck, dec 1 st by K 2 tog = 29-29-37-37-45-45 sts. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts evenly over each of the cables (= 4-4-6-6-8-8 sts dec on each shoulder) = 25-25-31-31-37-37 sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm - adjust after 1 whole repetition of pattern - slip the middle 29 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each side separately. NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st until finished measurements. Then cast off on every row from neck: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time = 29-29-37-37-45-45 sts remain for shoulder. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts evenly over each of the cables (= 4-4-6-6-8-8 sts dec on each shoulder) = 25-25-31-31-37-37 sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 51-53-55-57-57-61 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light or Belle. Work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, P 0-1-2-3-3-5, K 3, P 4, K 3, A.2, K 3, P 4, K 3, P 0-1-2-3-3-5, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 3 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 1-2-3-4-4-6 sts in stocking st, A.8, A.7, A.9, 1-2-3-4-4-6 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 9-8-13-13-9-10 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 17-18-19-20-22-22 more times = 87-91-95-99-103-107 sts. NOTE: Work the new sts in stocking st. When piece measures approx. 50-51-49-50-49-50 cm - adjust after one whole repetition vertically - dec 2 sts evenly over each of the cables (= 4 sts dec) = 83-87-91-95-99-103 sts. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew one and one st with grafting/kitchener stitches. Sew sleeves to body inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid back and pick up approx. 120-130 sts incl sts on stitch holder around the neck on circular needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light, join to work around. Work 2 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation abow - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 120. Work rib as follows: K 1, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, P 3, K 1. When rib has been worked for 3 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.08.2016
BACK PIECE:....Continue like this until diagrams have been worked vertically = 113-121-129-139-159-171 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work pattern as follows with 1 st in garter st in each side: 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in stocking st, A.6 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, A.7, A.10 0-0-0-1-1-1 time in width, A.8, A.7, A.9, A.6 0-0-0-0-1-1 time in width, A.7, A.10 0-0-0-1-1-1 time in width, 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in stocking st...
Updated online: 24.02.2017
BACK PIECE:...A.10 0-0-1-1-1-1 time in width, 3-7-3-8-10-16 sts in stocking st. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm...

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = Bobble: Inc to 4 sts from 1 st, work 3 rows stocking st over these sts, on 4th row K4tog = 1 st.
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO. On next row P the YO to make a hole.
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso On next row P the YO to make a hole.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Crocus wrote:

Une erreur de torsion de torsade sur le modèle photographié... Même les pro peuvent se tromper...c'est rassurant. :-)

15.07.2020 - 21:38

country flag Rous wrote:

Continuer avec l'aiguille circulaire 4,5 et tricoter en point fantaisie ainsi taille M avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté: 7m jersey, A.6 en largeur, A.10 en largeur, A.8, A.7,A.6 en largeur,A.10 en jersey.1 m point mousse les autre diagrame sont marquer zero pouvez vous maider par ecrit svp

01.01.2020 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rous, les réponses précédentes vous ont-elles permis de décoder les explications? Si tel n'est pas le cas, n'hésitez pas à nous en dire plus, bon tricot!

02.01.2020 - 15:19

country flag Rous wrote:

Je vous répond en deux TeX trop long Bonjour que veux dire ces 0 pour la taille M merci pour votre reponce écrite pour cette taille M

01.01.2020 - 09:24

country flag Rous wrote:

Correction en ligne le: 29.08.2016 CORRECTION DOS (A.10 en taille XL): ... Continuer avec l\'aiguille circulaire 4,5 et tricoter en point fantaisie ainsi avec 1 m point mousse de chaque côté: 3-7-3-8-10-16 m jersey, 0-0-1-1-1-1 fois A.6 en largeur, A.7, 0-0-0-1-1-1 fois A.10 en largeur, A.8, A.7, A.9, 0-0-0-0-1-1 fois A.6 en largeur, A.7, 0-0-0-1-1-1 fois A.10 en largeur, 3-7-3-8-10-16 m jersey. Bonjour que veux dire ces 0 pour la taille M merci

01.01.2020 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rous, quand on doit tricoter 0 fois un diagramme, cela signifie que ce diagramme ne sera pas tricoté dans cette taille - ainsi, en M on tricote ainsi: 1 m lis, 7 m jersey, A.7 (= 29 m), A.8 (= 9 m), A.7 (= 29 m), A.9 (= 9 m), A.7 (= 29 m), 7 m jersey, 1 m lis soit: 1+7+29+9+29+9+29+7+1= 121 m . Bon tricot!

02.01.2020 - 14:57

country flag Nicole Rous wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas du tout votre diagramme pou la taille M 123 maille je me mélange avec ces dia gramme pour les cotes prouvez vous m'aider en simplifiant pour le modelé M en vous remerciant

30.12.2019 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rous, vous pouvez surligner les indications pour votre taille pour mieux les repérer, ainsi en taille M, vous allez tricoter: 1 m lis au point mousse, tricotez les 7 dernières m de A.11, A.2 (=29m), A.3 (=10 m), A.2 (= 29 m), A.4 (=10 m), A.2 (= 29 m), tricotez les 7 premières m de A.12, 1 m lis au point mousse soit: 1 + 7 + 29 + 10 + 29 + 10 + 29 + 7 + 1 = 123 m. Bon tricot!

02.01.2020 - 13:45

country flag Jos Keesman Vree wrote:

Goede middag, ik heb al eerder een vraag gesteld maar nog geen antwoordt gekregen, weet niet of mijn mail adres is overgekomen dus probeer ik het nogmaals.

05.02.2019 - 14:38

country flag Jos Keesman wrote:

Goede middag, Ik wil heel graag het patroon breien van Sea Light in de maat L maar wat ik ook probeer (reken) ik kom er niet uit.ook niet met de correctie die er in staat. Kunt u mij zeggen in welke volgorde en hoe vaak ik de verschillende patroon deeltjes moet breien? Bij voorbaat hartelijk dank

03.02.2019 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jos,

Om te beginnen: de correcties zijn al verwerkt in het online patroon.

Telkens als je een reeks met getallen ziet met streepjes er tussen, zoek je het getal van jouw maat. Voor maat L is dat het derde getal 0-0-0-0-1-1. Dus als er staat: Brei A.1 0-0-0-0-1-1 keer dan brei je in jouw geval A.1 0 keer.

(Sommigen vinden het handig om het patroon te kopiëren en plakken in een tekstverwerker en dan de getallen te verwijderen die je niet nodig hebt. Je kunt ook de telpatronen even apart uitprinten.

08.02.2019 - 16:53

country flag Isabella Kleist wrote:

Korrektur: Nach ein wenig rechnen und tüfteln hier nun die richtige Musteraufteilung für Größe S - RM 3 M glatt re, 1x A.2 1x A.3 1x A.2 1x A.4 1xA.2 3 M glatt re RM (= 115 M) insgesamt 1x in die Höhe stricken. Danach RM 3 M glatt re 1x A.7 1x A.8 1xA.7 1xA.9 1xA.7 3 M glatt re RM (= 113 M). Könnt gerne meine Auflistung für die Korrektur nutzen, die auch in anderen Sprachen zu korrigieren ist. ☺

03.10.2017 - 12:14

country flag Isabella Kleist wrote:

Von A.11 str, A.1 0-0-1-1-1-1 x in der Breite, A.2, A.3, A.1 0-0-0-0-1-1 x in der Breite, A.2, A.5 0-0-0-0-1-1 x in der Breite, A.4, A.2, A.5 0-0-1-1-1-1 x in der Breite, die ersten 3-7-3-8-10-16 M von A.12 ... Habe ich ein Verständnisproblem, doch wie kann ich 0x etwas stricken um ein Muster zu erhalten oder soll es bedeuten das ich den Mustersatz immer nur 1x stricke und 0x wiederhole?

03.10.2017 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kleist, in die ersten Größen wird A.1 nicht gestrickt, so stricken Sie einfach A.11, dann A.2, A.3, A.2, A.4, A.2, A.5 usw... Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.10.2017 - 13:19

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Buongiorno, chiedo se possibile lavorare le maniche in tondo in modo da evitare una cucitura

26.02.2017 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giovanna, se preferisce può lavorare le maniche in tondo, avendo cura di adattare il motivo alla lavorazione in tondo. Buon lavoro!

26.02.2017 - 15:22