DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 152-3
DROPS design: Pattern no e-221
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 06, denim blue

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 20 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 8 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 523: 5 pieces for all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.

CROCHET TIP 1:
When one whole repetition of pattern vertically in diagrams A.1-A.4 have been worked, continue with pattern but now work A.X.

CROCHET TIP 2:
Work 3RD ROW of A.6 as follows over 6 tr: Work 3 ch (to turn with), 3 tr in 3rd tr from hook, 2 ch, 3 tr in next tr. On each row starting with A.6 (i.e rows with tr-groups) ch 3 to turn with before working A.6. Repeat pattern in chart from 4th row.

CROCHET TIP 3:
When working A.6 on front band work 1st row as follows: Work 3 ch (to turn with), 3 tr in 6th ch from hook, ch 2, 3 tr in next tr.
On each row starting with A.6 (i.e rows with tr-groups) ch 3 to turn with before working A.6. Repeat pattern in chart from 4th row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Measure from neck edge at the front and sew buttons on left band:
SIZE S: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm
SIZE M: 2, 8, 14, 20 and 26 cm
SIZE L: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked top down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 62-62-82-82-82-102 ch on hook size 4 mm with Safran.
Work 1ST ROW (= RS)(= 1ST ROW in diagram A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.6) as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 11-11-15-15-15-19 times in total, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in last ch = 48-48-64-64-64-80 tr – READ CROCHET INFO.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in each of the 48-48-64-64-64-80 tr.
ROW 3 (= RS): Then work PATTERN according to diagram A.6 over 6 tr 1 time - READ CROCHET TIP 2! Continue with A.1 over 18 tr, A.2 over 16-16-32-32-32-48 tr, and A.3 over 8 tr. Continue like this back and forth with pattern the same way, AT THE SAME TIME inc sts for neck in diagram A.3. When 1 whole repetition vertically of A.3 has been worked, work 23 new ch towards mid front for A.4 and A.6 (= band) – READ CROCHET TIP 1 and CROCHET TIP 3! Then work as follows with pattern from WS: A.6, A.4 over 17 ch, A.2 2-2-3-3-3-4 times, A.1 1 time, and A.6 1 time. Continue like this back and forth until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm in total = right sleeve. On next row from WS continue as before with A.6, A.4 and A.2 until 1-1-2-2-2-3 repetitions of A.2 have been worked in width. Then work ch-spaces as follows: Work 1 dc in next st, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat 1-2-0-1-2-0 more times (= 2-3-1-2-3-1 ch-space in total). Turn and work as follows from RS: Beg on 3rd row in A.6 and work 1 repetition in the next 2-3-1-2-3-1 ch-space, continue with A.2, A.4 and A.6 as before until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm in total, - or adjust after one whole repetition vertically.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 61-61-81-81-81-101 ch on hook size 4 mm with Safran.
Work 1ST ROW (= RS)(= 1ST ROW in diagram A.2, A.4, A.5 and A.6) as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 11-11-15-15-15-19 times in total, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in last ch = 47-47-63-63-63-79 tr.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in each of the 47-47-63-63-63-79 tr. Then work as right front piece but reversed and work according to diagram A.5 instead of A.3, A.4 instead of A.1, and A.1 instead of A.4.

BACK PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows:
Work 62-62-82-82-82-102 ch on hook size 4 mm with Safran.
Work 1ST ROW as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 11-11-15-15-15-19 times in total, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in last ch = 48-48-64-64-64-80 tr.
ROW 2 (= 1ST ROW in diagram A.2, A.4 and A.6): Work 1 tr in each of the first 47-47-63-63-63-79 tr on row, work 2 tr in last tr on row = 49-49-65-65-65-81 tr. Cut the yarn and put piece aside. Work left shoulder as follows:
Work 61-61-81-81-81-101 ch on hook size 4 mm with Safran.
Work 1ST ROW as follows from RS: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 11-11-15-15-15-19 times in total, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in last ch = 47-47-63-63-63-79 tr.
ROW 2 (= 1ST ROW in diagram A.1, A.2 and A.6): Work 2 tr in the first tr on row, then work 1 tr in each of the remaining 46-46-62-62-62-78 tr on row = 48-48-64-64-64-80 tr.
ROW 3: Work 1 tr in each of the next tr on left shoulder, work 46 LOOSE ch for neck, 1 tr in every tr on right shoulder = 143-143-175-175-175-207 tr.
ROW 4: 1 repetition A.6 over 6 tr, A.4 over 17 tr, A.2 over 96-96-128-128-128-160 tr, A.1 over 18 tr, and finally A.6 over 6 tr - read CROCHET TIP 2. Continue this pattern back and forth until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm in total (adjust according to front piece). Fasten off. Then work ch-spaces along one sleeve as on front piece – adjust to beg the same distance from edge on sleeve as on front piece and work ch-spaces as follows: * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat 1-2-0-1-2-0 more times (= 2-3-1-2-3-1 ch-space in total). Continue over back piece with pattern as before, and finish with ch-spaces the same way in the other side. Continue as on front piece with A.6 in each side and pattern as before until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Place front piece on top of back piece and work the sides and underarm seams tog in one as follows: Work 1 dc in front piece, 3 ch, 1 dc in back piece, * 3 ch, 1 dc in front piece approx. 1 cm higher up, 3 ch, 1 dc in back piece approx. 1 cm higher up *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st. Fasten off. Repeat in the other side. Sew buttons on to the left band and button through right band - see explanation above.

NECK EDGE:
When piece is assembled, work a neck edge as follows: Beg from RS, mid front on right band, fasten yarn with 1 sl st, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = tr
symbols = work 2 tr in same st as follows: 1 tr, but wait with last pull through (there are now 2 loops on hook), work 1 tr in same st. Pull last loop through all 3 loops on hook.
symbols = dc
symbols = 3 ch
symbols = 3 ch
symbols = triple tr
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 152-3

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (105)

country flag Stienie Strydom wrote:

Beautiful

08.03.2024 - 19:35

country flag Sab wrote:

Suite. On ne peut pas se repérer sur le rang précédant car je suis sur la chaînette. J'ai aussi une autre question concernant le DOS : crocheter l'épaule gauche, crocheter le 1er rang sur l'endroit. Mais pour crocheter l'épaule droite, ce n'est pas mentionné. Ce devrait être crocheter l'épaule droite sur l'envert ? merci de confirmer

07.07.2023 - 22:37

country flag Sab wrote:

Merci. J'ai 2 autres questions. J'en suis au devant droit montage des 23 ml de la chaînette. Je suis donc sur l'envers, crochète A6 mais ensuite je ne comprends pas comment crocheter le dernier rang de A4 dans les 17 ml suivantes. Si je regarde le diagramme il y a 3 B, sauter 1 ml, 1B, 3 ml (donc je saute 3ml de la chaînette), 4 B dans 1ml, 4B dans 1ml (avec 1 ml entre 2), 3 m. (donc je saute 3 ml. de la chaînette), 1B, sauter 1 ml, 2B. Total 16 mailles.

07.07.2023 - 22:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sab, vous devez terminer A.4 par 3 brides, pas juste 2 brides, et ainsi vous avez bien vos 17 mailles (et 4 brides à la fin de A.4 + 3 brides au début de A.2 = 7 brides au total). Bon crochet!

27.07.2023 - 09:35

country flag Sab wrote:

Bonjour, Je commence à crocheter ce modèle 152-3 Nostalgia et j'en suis au 7ème rang du devant droit. J'ai un doute concernant le diagramme A6. Doit-on répéter les rangs 1 et 2 de brides ou seulement les rangs 3-4-5-6 ? Même question lorsque l'on doit crocheter A6 sur la chaînette de 23 m. doit-on faire les 2 rangs de brides à chaque fois que l'on répète A6 ? Merci d'avance pour la réponse.

06.07.2023 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sab, vous allez répéter les 4 derniers rangs de A.6 seulement. Bon crochet!

06.07.2023 - 15:12

country flag Marja Knops wrote:

Het is een erg leuk patroon, maar ik loop vast bij a3. Nadat ik a3 is zn geheel een keer heb gehaakt, weet ik niet goed hoe ik de a3 moet beginnen om het patroon nog een keer te haken. A6 a1 a2 en a3 heb ik 1 x in de hoogte gehaakt en dit moet nog 1x. Hoe begin ik dan met a3?

25.05.2022 - 15:00

country flag Catherine wrote:

How much ease is designed into this pattern?

13.06.2021 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, you can find the measurements for each size below the pattern. Happy crocheting!

13.06.2021 - 19:28

country flag Mette Munch-Boutrup wrote:

Jeg er nået til at hækle over de 23lm. Skal jeg starte med 2. række i diagrammerne, dvs. en række stangmasker fra vrang, før jeg vender og hækler A6, A1, A2 *3, A1 og A6? Jeg går i står hver gang.

10.05.2020 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mette, du får svar på dit spørgsmål hvis du læse Hækletips 3 - God fornøjelse! :)

22.05.2020 - 08:56

country flag Hinke wrote:

Wat betekend het zwarte ovaal ?

06.07.2019 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hinke,

De zwarte ovaal staat voor 3 lossen.

08.07.2019 - 10:11

country flag Arlette wrote:

Bonjour\r\nAprès avoir crocheté 1 fois A.3 en hauteur, j\'ai monté la chaînette de 23 ml .Je crochète A6 ainsi: 3 ml (pour tourner), 3 B dans la 6ème ml à partir du crochet, 2 ml, 3 B dans la B suivante ou bien 6 B puis dois-je continuer avec A4 soit 17B ou faire A4 à partir de AX sur le diagramme comme pour A2 (astuce crochet1?) ET a2 est-il fait à partir de AX ,Merci pour votre réponse

08.04.2018 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Arlette, les 2 x 3 brides se font dans la même maille en l'air (cf ASTUCE CROCHET 3), crochetez ensuite A.4 sur les 17 ml suivantes en suivant le même rang que celui que vous ferez ensuite pour A.2. Bon crochet!

09.04.2018 - 10:43

country flag Jose Steggink wrote:

Rechtervoorpand is af tot de 3x A.6 bij de oksel. Dan staat er: " Ga verder met A.2, A.4 en A.6 als hiervoor tot het werk.... ". Moet ik die 3x A.6 steeds herhalen? Of met de teruggaande toer maar 1x? Vriendelijke groet!

22.03.2018 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Jose, Je haakt inderdaad A.6 op dezelfde manier. Er staat Ga in de volgende toer aan de verkeerde kant verder als hiervoor met A.6, A.4 en A.2 tot er 1-1-2-2-2-3 patroonherhalingen van A.2 zijn gehaakt Je gaat dus op dezelfde manier verder met A.4 en A.6, maar van A.2 haak je 2 herhalingen in de breedte. Daarna volg je het patroon verder.

26.03.2018 - 10:26