DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Lady of the Forest

Knitted DROPS jacket with stripes in stocking st and double moss st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 149-14
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-053
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 7820, green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for edges.
DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON, NO 525: 14 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

DOUBLE MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: P over K and K over P.
Row 4: As 2nd row.
Repeat row 1 to 4.

KNITTING TIP:
Work 1 row on right front piece before beg inc towards mid front. Work 2 rows on left front piece before beg inc towards mid front (i.e. left front piece is 1 row longer than right front piece. That way you avoid cutting the thread every time new sts are cast on in rounded edge at the front).

BUTTONHOLE BODY:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 7, 15, 22, 30, 37 and 46 cm.
SIZE M: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40 and 49 cm.
SIZE L: 8, 17, 25, 33, 41 and 51 cm.
SIZE XL: 8, 17, 25, 33, 41 and 51 cm.
SIZE XXL: 9, 18, 26, 35, 43 and 53 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 9, 18, 26, 35, 43 and 56 cm.
NOTE! Cast off the last buttonhole on 2nd row on neckline.

STRIPES BODY:
* Work 8½-9-9½-9½-10-10½ cm in stocking st, 8½-9-9½-9½-10-10½ cm double moss st *, repeat from *-* 2 more times = 3 stripes in double moss st.

BUTTONHOLE SLEEVE:
Cast off for buttonholes on part 1 of sleeve. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th and 5th st from edge on band and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
2, 5, 8 and 11 cm for all sizes.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Work 7½-7-6-5½-2-1 cm in stocking st, 8½-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm double moss st, 8½-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm in stocking st, 16½-16-15-14½-15-14 cm double moss st = 2 stripes in total in double moss st.

INCREASE TIP:
At beg of row: Inc 1 st after 1 edge st by getting yarn between 2 sts from previous row - work this st twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. K the new st twisted if next st is P, P the new st twisted if next st is K. Continue pattern as before.
At end of row: Inc 1 st before 1 edge st by getting yarn between 2 sts from previous row - work this st twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. K the new st twisted if previous st is P, P the new st twisted if previous st is K.

DECREASE TIP:
At beg of row: Dec 1 st by working the 2 sts after 1 edge st tog, K tog if next st is P, P tog if next st is K. Continue pattern as before.
At end of row: Dec 1 st by working the 2 sts before 1 edge st tog, K tog if previous st is P, P tog if previous st is K. Continue pattern as before.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 99-107-117-129-143-159 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work DOUBLE MOSS ST - see explanation above, with 1 edge st in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above.
When 10 rows have been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above – with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc in each side every 8-6½-7-6½-7½-10 cm 3-4-4-4-4-3 more times (= 4-5-5-5-5-4 sts inc in each side) = 107-117-127-139-153-167 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 36-38-40-39-41-43 cm, cast off 2-5-5-6-6-6 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes = 103-107-117-127-141-155 sts on needle. Continue with stripes until piece measures 52-55-58-58-61-64 cm. Now cast off the middle 37-37-39-39-41-41 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 32-34-38-43-49-56 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures approx. 54-57-60-60-63-66 cm. Work the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 39-43-47-53-61-69 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work double moss st - see explanation above, with 1 edge st in garter st in the side (1st row = RS). NOTE: Beg moss st with K towards mid front on 1st row. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row towards mid front for rounded front edge as follows: Cast on 2 sts 5 times in total = 49-53-57-63-71-79 sts.
When 10 rows have been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Continue with STRIPES BODY - AT THE SAME TIME work double moss st towards mid front as follows:

Row 1 (RS): 11 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 2 (WS): 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 11 sts remain, work the remaining 11 sts in double moss st AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts towards mid front.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row 3 more times (= 4 times in total) = 8 sts inc. Then work as follows:
Row 1: 11 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 2: 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 11 sts remain, work the remaining 11 sts in double moss st.
Row 3: 9 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 4: 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 9 sts remain, work the remaining 9 sts in double moss st.
Row 5: 7 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 6: 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 7 sts remain, work the remaining 7 sts in double moss st.
Inc towards mid front are done and there are 57-61-65-71-79-87 sts on needle. Work in stocking st with 7 sts double moss st towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st in the side – REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES on band – see explanation above.
When piece measures 8 cm, inc in the side as on back piece = 61-66-70-76-84-91 sts on needle. When piece measures 36-38-40-39-41-43 cm (measured on the side on the longest), cast off 2-5-5-6-6-6 sts at beg of next row from the side for armholes = 59-61-65-70-78-85 sts on needle. When piece measures 45-48-50-50-52-55 cm, slip 17-17-17-17-19-19 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the thread). Then cast off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts in total 4 times and then 1 st 2 times = 32-34-38-43-49-56 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 54-57-60-60-63-66 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. READ KNITTING TIP!

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Bottom part of sleeve is worked in 2 parts before slipping them tog.
PART 1:
Cast on 26-27-28-28-28-29 sts (incl 1 edge st and 7 sts button band) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work double moss st - see explanation above, with 1 edge st in garter st in the side (1st row = RS). REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES when sleeve measures 2, 5, 8 and 11 cm. When 10 rows have been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work as follows:
Row 11 (RS): 7 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 12 (WS): 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 7 sts remain, work the remaining 7 sts in double moss st.
Continue working like this, REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When piece measures 12 cm, cast off the 7 sts in moss st = 19-20-21-21-21-22 sts on needle. Put piece aside.
PART 2:
Cast on 38-40-41-43-43-45 sts (incl 1 edge st and 7 sts button band) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work double moss st - see explanation above, with an edge st in garter st in the side (1st row = RS). When 10 rows have been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows:
Row 11 (RS): 1 edge st in garter st, stocking st until 7 sts remain, work the remaining 7 sts in double moss st.
Row 12 (WS): 7 sts double moss st, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue working like this, REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.
When piece measures 12 cm, slip the two parts tog on needle, so that edges in moss st overlap and band's opening is faced forwards (PART 2 is under PART 1). There are now 57-60-62-64-64-67 sts on needle (incl 1 edge st in each side). Then work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above, with 1 edge st in garter st in each side, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc in each side every 8th-7th-7th-6th-5th-4th row 15-16-17-18-21-22 more times (= 16-17-18-19-22-23 sts in total inc in each side) = 89-94-98-102-108-113 sts. When piece measures 52-51-50-48-46-44 cm, insert 1 marker in each side. Continue until piece measures 53-53-52-51-49-47 cm and cast off.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Work as right sleeve but reversed. Remember BUTTONHOLES on PART 1!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Fasten button band on sleeve. Sew in the sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. (Markers on sleeve should fit towards the side of front and back piece).

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 120 to 140 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 9 rows double moss st back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row cast off for 1 buttonhole on right band. Cast off.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Milou wrote:

Ik loop helemaal vast bij het rechter voorpand. Ik moet na naald 1 en 2 vier keer te hebben gedaan verder met strepen op het lijf tijdens het breien tot naald 6 en 7 steken gerstekorrel middenvoor terwijl een andere aanwijzing zegt dat ik 9 steken gerstekorrel middenvoor ,let breien. Ik vind het heel verwarrend en kan veel hulp gebruiken.

05.12.2022 - 17:29

country flag Marie wrote:

Står det fel i detta mönster om dubbel mosstickning. När jag kollar ska det vara 2 rm o 2 am men i detta mönster står det bara 1 rm och 1 am?

07.05.2022 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marie. Se vårt svar på ditt forrige innlegg :) mvh DROPS Design

09.05.2022 - 11:22

country flag Marie wrote:

Det står att man ska sticka dubbel mosstickning men i beskrivningen verkar det inte vara dubbel. Står bara 1 rm och 1 am. Ska väl vara 2 av varje?

07.05.2022 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marie. Husk å lese beskrivningen til dobbel perlestrikk (dubbel moss-st). Da vil du se at dobbel perlestrikk i denne oppskriften er i høyden, altså 1. og 2. rad strikkes likt og 3. og 4. rad strikkes likt, så gjentas 1.-4. rad. Lykke til videre. mvh DROPS Design

09.05.2022 - 11:21

country flag Dorthe Liljegreen wrote:

Jeg er ved at strikke 149-14, men er i tvivl om forstykket, skal men tage ud i begge sider, alsåogså mod ryggen? Skal man også stadig tage ud mod midt, når man er igang med forkant

20.03.2022 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Dorthe, du tager kun ud mod midt foran :)

22.03.2022 - 13:18

country flag Nguyen wrote:

Bonjour, Ce modèle est exactement ce que je recherche, mais je n'arrive pas à avoir la version française. Pourriez-vous m'aider ? Avec tous mes remerciements et mes félicitations pour votre site pour les explications des réalisations de tricot. Très cordialement. Nhu

22.03.2021 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nhu, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo (avec le petit globe) et sélectionnez la langue de votre choix. Bon tricot!

23.03.2021 - 08:28

country flag Marie Laurence Gardaz wrote:

Bonjour, Est ce que nous conseilleriez de tricoter des deux devant et le dos ensemble, en un seul bloc puis de continuer séparément à partir des emmanchures. Je me pose la question si ce modèle en Alpaca silk supporterait de ne pas avoir de couture latérales le long du corps. Est ce que cela influencerait la tenue de la jaquette ? Merci d'avance.

19.11.2020 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gardaz, les coutures apportent effectivement une certaine stabilité, toutefois, nous avons de nombreux modèles en BabyAlpaca Silk qui se tricotent en une seule partie jusqu'aux emmanchures (sans coutures sur les côtés), il est fort probablement possible de tricoter ainsi. Bon tricot!

20.11.2020 - 08:35

country flag Monica wrote:

Jeg strikker dobbelt perlestrik i garn mayflower class 1 og arbejdet forskubber sig skråt sidelæns i stedet for kvadratisk, Hvad kan jeg gøre anderledes, maskeantal er lige antal, og strikker fra side til side og ikke rundpind. Håber i kan hjælpe, elsker jeres garn og jeres side. Mvh Monica.

24.11.2019 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monica. Garnet Mayflower class 1 kommer ikke fra oss og jeg kjenner ikke til dette garnet. Anbefaler deg til å kontakte leverandøren eller butikken du har kjøp garnet for å få noen tips. God Fornøyelse!

25.11.2019 - 08:18

country flag Eva Johnsson wrote:

Hej! Jag tycker detta är en väldigt trevlig modell med de insprängda ränderna! Men jag undrar hur man gör och hur många maskor man lägger upp på ärmen om man vill sticka den som en vanlig lång ärm utan sprund och knappar, kan det vara 60 maskor? Med vänliga hälsningar Eva

06.10.2019 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du skal strikke. Men i 60 masker i størrelse M kan stemme, bare husk kantmaskene, og at perlestrikken stemmer overens når ermsømmen skal sys sammen. God Fornøyelse!

07.10.2019 - 14:15

country flag Paola Pomioli wrote:

Salve, sono necessari i ferri circolari perché si lavora in tondo? Può darmi una spiegazione al riguardo per favore?

16.06.2018 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paola. L'uso dei ferri circolari è molto diffuso soprattutto nei paesi del nord Europa. Questo modello è lavorato in parti separate, avanti e indietro sui ferri. Può sostituire i ferri circolari con quelli dritti. Le spiegazioni non cambiano. Buon lavoro!

16.06.2018 - 15:40

country flag Linda Peachey wrote:

I am swatching for this pattern and have had to go to a size 6 (4.00 mm) needle to get the stitch gauge. Is the fabric supposed to be a loose knit? I often have gauge difficulty with Drops patterns, so perhaps I am doing something wrong. Help, please?

28.12.2017 - 04:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, just as every knitter work with different gauge, we also have different preferencses (as how dense we like our knitted fabric). The pattern is written for the gauge that is given, however, if you prefer somewhat thighter texture, you will have to recalculate the stitch count. If you are having difficulty achieving gauge, you might want to try a different type of needle (like metallic, instead of bamboo, etc), or a different knitting style (continental instead of English, etc). I hope you can work it out, this sweater is so pretty it will worth it. Happy crafting!

29.12.2017 - 09:58