DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Morning Fog

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern, collar and short sleeves in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 149-20
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-052
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 8465, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON, NO 525: 6 pieces for all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to rib-section mid back and on each front piece):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after marker A: P 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before marker B: P 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to dec in the sides on front and back piece):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 1 edge st in the side: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 1 edge st in the side: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 3 (applies to dec on outside of textured pattern front and back):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker A: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker B: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP 4 (applies to neck dec at the front):
Dec for neck inside 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS.
Dec as follows after sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before sts in garter st: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = cast off third and fourth st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 8, 13, 18, 23, 28 and 33 cm.
SIZE M: 9, 14, 19, 24, 29 and 34 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35 cm.
SIZE XL: 11, 16, 21, 26, 31 and 36 cm.
SIZE XXL: 12, 17, 22, 27, 32 and 37 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 13, 18, 23, 28, 33 and 38 cm.
----------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 143-151-159-171-187-195 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 7-8-9 times in total, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 9-9-9 times in total, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 7-8-9 times in total and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this with K over K and P over P.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-11 times in total, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 9-9-9 times in total, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 1, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-11 times in total and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this with K over K and P over P.
When piece measures 3 cm, work next row as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: 1 edge st in garter st, 28-32-36 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, insert 1 marker (= A), * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total, P 3, insert 1 marker (= B), K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, 28-32-36 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern like this.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: 1 edge st in garter st, 32-40-44 sts in stocking st, P 3, K 2, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, insert 1 marker (= A), * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total, P 3, insert 1 marker (= B), K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, 32-40-44 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
DECREASE IN RIB-SECTION MID BACK:
When 4 rows have been worked after rib, dec 1 st from RS after marker A and before marker B – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec alternately every 6th and 4th row (i.e. alternately on every third and every other row from RS), 17 more times (= 18 dec in each side on rib-section). NOTE: The 3 sts that remain between marker A and B mid back after dec are worked K from WS. On next row from RS P these 3 sts tog (= 2 sts dec). On next row from RS work the one P st in the middle K tog with next K st so that 2 K sts are exactly mid back (= 1 st dec).
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-10-10-10-12 cm, dec 1 st in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 2 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec in each side every 6-6-8-8-8-12 cm 3-3-2-2-2-1 more time = 4-4-3-3-3-2 dec in total in each side on back piece.
INCREASE FOR SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, cast on new sts for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 st 5 times in total, 2 sts 4-4-4-3-3-3 times in total and finally 15-14-12-12-10-10 sts 1 time – now work the 6 outermost sts in each side in garter st (= sleeve edges).
INCREASE AND DECREASE IN TEXTURED PATTERN:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, move marker A and marker B so that marker A is before the first 3 P sts in textured pattern mid back (seen from RS) and marker B is after the last 3 P sts in textured pattern mid back.
Then dec outside the outermost 3 P sts in textured pattern mid back, i.e. before marker A and after marker B – READ DECREASE TIP 3 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 14-14-14-19-19-19 more times (= 15-15-15-20-20-20 dec in total in each side).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st in each of the middle 6-6-6-8-8-8 P-sections mid back – READ INCREASE TIP (= 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-3-2½-2½-2½ cm 5 more times (= 6 inc in total in each P-section – NOTE: At first inc, inc at beg of each P-section, next time at the end of each P-section etc.).

After all dec and inc there are 158-164-170-180-192-202 sts on needle. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern as before.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 16-16-20-20-24-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st at beg of the next 2 rows from neck = 69-72-73-78-82-87 sts remain on the shoulder. LOOSELY cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 78-82-86-92-100-104 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 5 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: 5 band sts in GARTER ST, K 1, P 3, K 2, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 7-8-9 times in total and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this with K over K and P over P.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: 5 band sts in GARTER ST, K 1, P 3, K 2, * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, K 2, P 3, * K 1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-11 times in total and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this with K over K and P over P.
When piece measures 3 cm, work next row as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: 5 band sts in garter st, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, insert 1 marker (= A), * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, P 3, insert 1 marker (= B), K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, 27-31-35 sts in stocking st, K 2 tog (= 28-32-36 sts in stocking st as on back piece) and 1 edge st in garter st = 77-81-85 sts. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern like this.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: 5 band sts in garter st, K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 1, insert 1 marker (= A), * P 3, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, P 3, insert 1 marker (= B), K 1, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 3, K 2, P 3, 31-39-43 sts in stocking st, K 2 tog (= 32-40-44 sts in stocking st as on back piece) and 1 edge st in garter st = 91-99-103 sts. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern like this.
DECREASE IN RIB-SECTION TOWARDS MID FRONT:
When 4 rows have been worked after rib, dec 1 st from RS after marker A and before marker B – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3½ cm 7 more times (= 8 dec in total in each side on rib-section). NOTE: The 3 sts that remain between marker A and B after dec are worked K from WS. On next row from RS P these 3 sts tog (= 2 sts dec). On next row from RS, K tog the 3 middle sts in rib so that 1 K st is in the middle over rib-section (= 2 sts dec).
DECREASE IN THE SIDE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-10-10-10-12 cm, dec in the side as on back piece. Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above.
After all dec are done, 53-57-62-68-76-81 sts remain on needle.
INCREASE FOR SLEEVE:
When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side as on back piece. After last inc, work the outermost 6 sts in the side in garter st (= sleeve edge).
INCREASE AND DECREASE IN TEXTURED PATTERN:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, move marker A to the second P-section from mid front. Move marker B so that marker is after the last 3 P sts in textured pattern.
Then inc 1 st in each of the 2-2-2-3-3-3 P-sections after marker A - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3 cm 5 more times (= 6 inc in total in each P-section – NOTE: Inc alternately at beg and end of P-sections as on back piece).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, dec outside the outermost 3 P sts towards the side, i.e. after marker B – READ DECREASE TIP 3 (= 1 st dec). Repeat dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 14-14-14-19-19-19 more times (= 15-15-15-20-20-20 dec in total).
COLLAR AND NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 new sts at end of row from WS (i.e. towards mid front) for collar - work these sts in garter st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, dec for neck inside the 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts in garter st – READ DECREASE TIP 4.
Repeat dec every 6-5-4-4-3-3 cm 3-3-5-5-7-7 more times (= 4-4-6-6-8-8 dec in total for neck).

After all dec and inc there are 94-97-100-105-111-116 sts on needle. Continue with stocking st and textured pattern as before.
When piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS), LOOSELY cast off the first 69-72-73-78-82-87 sts for shoulder = 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts remain on needle for collar, work the rest of row.

COLLAR:
Continue in garter st back and forth over collar AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as follows: * 1 ridge in garter st over the outermost 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts, 1 ridge in garter st over all 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm on the most narrow part (collar will measure approx. 12-12-14-14-16-16 cm at the edge on the widest).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right but reversed (do not cast off for buttonholes on left band).
NOTE: When dec the last P sts between marker A and B, P the 3 sts twisted tog (instead of P tog). Further dec in K sts is done as follows: slip 1 st, K 2 tog, psso. Cast on new sts for collar at end of row from RS, and cast off shoulder on last row from RS (instead of from WS).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams - make sure the seam is not tight.
Sew collar tog mid back (make sure that seam is not visible when collar is folded down) and sew collar to neckline at the back of neck.
Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 149-20

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Lori wrote:

Right front for size XL states to cast on 92. But when I stitch the first garter stitch row, I have 6 stitches left over. When I add up the stitches of the row, they don't add up to 92. K1 P3 K2 =5 P3 K1 x 6 =24 P3 K2 P3 K2 P3 K2 P3 K2 P3 = 23 K1 P3 x 8 = 32 K1 Total stitches 85, not 92.

22.01.2022 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lori, For size XL we have: 5 stitches in garter stitch + K1, P3, K2 (= 6 stitches) + (P3,K1) 6 times (= 24 stitches) + P3,K2, P3, K2, P3, K2, P3, K2, P3 (= 23 stitches) + (K1, P3) 8 times (= 32 stitches) + K1 + K1 (edge stitch). In total, that's 5+6+24+23+32+2 = 92 stitches. Happy knitting!

23.01.2022 - 20:34

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Hei, hva betyr neste P strikkes fra " retten" ?

09.03.2018 - 21:10

country flag Natalia G. wrote:

Bonjour! Il y a déjà un bon moment que je fais et défais le devant. Je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment tricoter l'encolure et surtout quand est ce qu'on arrête le raccourcis. Serait il possible de préciser combien de fois il faut répéter le raccourcis? L'explication donnée ne m'aide pas du tout. Merci par avance

28.06.2017 - 07:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Natalia, les rangs raccourcis du col se répètent jusqu'à ce que le col mesure 6-7-8 cm (cf taille) côté épaule (= côté le plus court) et environ 12-14-16 cm côté le plus large (= sur l'extérieur de la veste). Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter un col châle sans rangs raccourcis, on va procéder ici de la même façon mais en tricotant plus de rangs sur une partie des mailles pour un joli retombé du col. Bon tricot!

28.06.2017 - 08:22

country flag Ornella wrote:

Ho realizzato il modello con Baby Merino colore Erica ed applicato bottoni rosa. Chiare le istruzioni vi faccio i complimenti e mi faccio i complimenti.

14.03.2015 - 20:55

country flag Vivi Møller Gjanderup wrote:

Jeg er i gang med denne top i str XXL og har fundet en lille fejl i en ellers imponerende udregnet opskrift. Det er i beskrivelsen af HØJRE FORSTYKKE under UDTAGNING OG INDTAGNING I STRUKTURMØNSTERET. I 2. afsnit står der: ''Videre tages der 1 m ud i hver af de 2 vrang-partier efter mærke A – læs UDTAGNINGSTIPS (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 m taget ud)....'' På størrelserne XL, XXL og XXXL skal der altså tages ud i 3 vrangpartier! Håber, det kan bruges. Og tak for vidunderlige opskrifter.

21.10.2014 - 09:40

country flag Margareta Wiklund wrote:

Skall det vara 6 st A1 mönster på stl xl-xxxl på bakstycket ? 3 st på var sida om mittpartiet. och på framst. enl. mönstret blir det 1 st A1 mitt fram och 2 st A1 vid sidan.? Tack på förhand Margareta

12.10.2014 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Det står såhär: STL XL + XXL + XXXL: 1 rätst kantm, 32-40-44 m slätst, 3 am, 2 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 2 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 1 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 1 rm, sätt 1 markör (= A), * 3 am, 1 rm *, upprepa *-* totalt 9 ggr, 3 am, sätt 1 markör (= B), 1 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 1 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 2 rm, 3 am, A.1 (= 2 m), 3 am, 2 rm, 3 am, 32-40-44 m slätst och 1 rätst kantm. Om du följer beskrivningen får du 3 x A.1 på var sida om mittpartiet. Lycka till!

23.10.2014 - 10:32

country flag Julia wrote:

Sehr schöne anleitung. Wolle ist bestellt. Ich mag nur nicht so gerne nähen. Kann ich die arbeit auch in einem teil stricken. Also die maschen für die vorderteile mit aufnehmen.

15.05.2014 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Julia, ja, theoretisch ist es möglich, bis zu den Armausschnitten alles in einem Stück zu stricken, Sie lassen dann die beiden Rand-M am Rückenteil weg und jeweils die eine Rand-M an der Seite des Vorderteils. Es dürfte allerdings recht kompliziert zu koordinieren sein, am besten drucken Sie sich die Anleitung aus und markieren sich genau die Stellen, die Sie dann am Rückenteil und den Vorderteilen gleichzeitig stricken müssen.

15.05.2014 - 16:54

country flag Linda Van Verdegem wrote:

Ik heb net het rugpand opgezet en ik wou het telpatroon breien maar volgens mijn berekening klopt dit niet. Ik kom aan een totaal van 123 steken en het zijn er 159 zonder de kantsteek. Is een verschil van 36 steken die ik niet weet hoe ze moeten gebreid worden.

18.03.2014 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Linda. Het aantal st is incl. de kantsteken (159 st voor maat L). Voor maat L wordt het dan: 1 kantst, 36 st tricotst, 3 av, 2 r, 3 av, A.1 (= 2 st), 3 av, 1 r, 3 av, A.1 (= 2 st), 3 av, 1 r, plaats 1 markeerder (= A), * 3 st av, 1 st r *, herhaal van *-* 9 keer in totaal, 3 av, plaats 1 markeerder (= B), 1 r, 3 av, A.1 (= 2 st), 3 av, 1 r, 3 av, A.1 (= 2 st), 3 av, 2 r, 3 av, 36 tricotst en 1 ribbelst. Volgens mijn berekening kom ik dan wel uit op 159 st.

18.03.2014 - 15:58

country flag Dominique METRAL wrote:

J'ai un problème avec le modèle 149-20 entre les augmentations et les diminutions pour la taille S au lieu d'arriver à 158 M j'arrive à 161 je ne comprends pas la NOTE au dessous des explications des dim. 1 des côtes au milieu dos; merci d'avance si vous pouvez me renseigner

23.12.2013 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Metral, en taille S, vous allez (dans l'ordre des explications):1)diminuer 2x 18m (=36 dim) + 2)diminuer 4x2 m (=8 dim) + 3)monter/augm pour les manches 28 m x 2 manches= 56 m + 4) dim. 2x 15 m (30 dim) et 5) augm. 6x 6 m (=36 augm). On a donc : 143 m - 36 - 8 + 56 - 30 + 36 = 161 m. La "Note" indique comment faire les dernières dim de cette section. Bon tricot!

27.12.2013 - 14:39

country flag Margje wrote:

Ik heb een vraag,hoe brei je deze vest zonder een rondbreinaald,maar dan met gewone breinaalden

26.11.2013 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Margje. Dit vest wordt heen en weer gebreid op de rondbreinld, dus je kan vervangen door een rechte naald, maar zorg ervoor dat je ruimte kan hebben voor alle steken.

28.11.2013 - 14:53