Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Hugs and kisses |
|
|
|
Knitted DROPS jumper worked in a square in garter st in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 146-2 |
|
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. MEASURING TIP: Hold the piece up when measuring. Because of the garter st and the weight of the yarn the sleeve will be somewhat longer. If a lighter sleeve is wanted, work 4 ridges at the bottom of sleeve, then work in reversed stocking st. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in 2 parts from mid front/mid back in a square. Cast on and work on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Finish by working the sleeves. FRONT PIECE: Cast on 8 sts with Paris and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm (= 2 sts on every needle). Insert a marker in the first, third, fifth and seventh st (= 4 markers). Then work in the round and in GARTER ST over all sts - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on every other round make 1 YO on each side of every marker (= 8 inc on every other round), on next round K YOs to make holes. Continue like this until there are 240-264-288-320-344 sts on needle (= 29-32-35-39-42 inc and 60-66-72-80-86 sts on each of the 4 sides). Stop with 1 P round. Now slip the middle 16-16-18-18-18 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder for neck, then work piece back and forth. Continue in garter st and continue inc at markers - AT THE SAME TIME cast off towards the neck on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. Continue inc until there are 284-308-330-362-386 sts on needle (= 38-41-44-48-51 inc, 78-84-90-98-104 sts between markers, 25-28-30-34-37 sts on each side of neck). Keep sts between 3rd and 4th marker on needle, cast off the other sts = 78-84-90-98-104 sts on needle. Work 2 ridges back and forth over these sts. Cast off. Insert a marker in each side, 17-18-19-20-21 cm down from the shoulder. This shows where the sleeve is sewn in. BACK PIECE: Cast on 8 sts with Paris and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm (= 2 sts on every needle). Insert a marker in the first, third, fifth and seventh st (= 4 markers). Then work in the round and in garter st over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on every other round make 1 YO on each side of every marker (= 8 inc on every other round), on next round K YOs to make holes. Continue like this until there are 288-312-336-368-392 sts on needle (= 35-38-41-45-48 inc and 72-78-84-92-98 sts between markers). Now cast off the middle 28-28-30-30-30 sts between 1st and 2nd marker for neck, then work piece back and forth = 260-284-306-338-362 sts. Continue inc until there are 284-308-330-362-386 sts on needle (= 38-41-44-48-51 inc, 78-84-90-98-104 sts between markers, 25-28-30-34-37 sts on each side of neck). Keep sts between 3rd and 4th marker on needle, cast off the other sts = 78-84-90-98-104 sts on needle. Work 15 ridges back and forth over these sts. Cast off. Insert a marker in each side, 17-18-19-20-21 cm down from the shoulder. This shows where the sleeve is sewn in. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. READ MEASURING TIP! Cast on 37-38-41-44-45 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm with Paris. Work in garter st. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 5-4½-4½-4-3½ cm 7-8-8-8-9 more times (= 8-9-9-9-10 inc in total) = 53-56-59-62-65 sts. Cast off when piece measures 49-48-47-45-44 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width). ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves down to markers on front/back piece. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st, leave the bottom 10 cm = vent. NECK EDGE: Knit up approx. 66 to 74 sts (incl sts on stitch holder) on a short circular needle (40 cm) around the neck. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. |
|
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (140)
SJ wrote:
I’m really struggling to start this, finding it very fiddly just 2 stitches on each of the double pointed needles but I’m trying again now on my 10th attempt. It’s extra fiddly with adding markers. So… with the markers when it says add to the 1st, 3rd, 5th etc stitch does it mean between the 1st and 2nd stitch etc or before the 1st, 3rd, 5th stitch?
04.04.2024 - 23:44DROPS Design answered:
Dear SJ, you should put the markers in the stitches, as later the yarnovers are done on both sides of the marked stitch. I hope this helps, Happy Knitting!
05.04.2024 - 01:56Verena wrote:
Habe den Pullover genau nach Angaben mit DROPS Paris gestrickt für eine Freundin, hat alles gut geklappt und sah super aus, aber seit dem ersten mal Tragen ist der Pulli mindesten 3 Nummern größer und erinnert eher an einen Sack - sehr schade, aber liegt an der Strickweise und am Gewicht. Ein bisschen hatte ich ja erwartet, aber so deutlich? Vielleicht sollte in der Anleitung nochmals genauer darauf hingewiesen werden. Die Freundin trägt den Pulli nun nur zu Hause...
06.02.2023 - 14:02DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Verena, vergessen Sie nicht, die Pfegehinweise zu folgen - bei der Banderolle sowie bei der Farbkarte sowie hier - also Paris können Sie in der Waschmaschinen waschen und beachten Sie, daß der Pullover schön liegend trocknet (um so was zu vermeiden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.02.2023 - 16:11Kari Lottrup wrote:
Kan blusen laves i uld, hvis ja, hvilken garn vil I så anbefale?
08.01.2023 - 15:08DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kari, Ja du kan strikke den i DROPS Nepal eller DROPS Alaska eller 2 tråde fra garngruppe A (strik den IKKE i Merino, den kan ikke strikkes så løst) Prøv garnomregneren, vælg Paris, vælg antal gram i din størrelse og vælg 1 tråd :)
10.01.2023 - 13:40Marion wrote:
Hallo, ich komme mit der Strickprobe nicht zurecht. Ich musste, um 10 cm in der Breite zu erreichen, eine Nadel Nr. 7 verwenden. Nach 30 Reihen habe ich nicht 10 cm sondern fast 13 cm. Was kann ich tun oder worauf muss ich achten?
15.08.2021 - 13:44DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Marion, hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maschenprobe, gerne wird Ihnen Ihr Laden, wo Sie das Garn gekauft haben, weiterhelfen (auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
16.08.2021 - 07:43Anna wrote:
Scusatemi non i ferri corti ma i ferri a doppia punta. Grazie di nuovo
24.05.2021 - 22:22Anna wrote:
Grazie mille. Forse sarà la volta buona per imparare a usare i ferri corti
24.05.2021 - 22:20Anna wrote:
Buonasera ho delle difficoltà con i ferri a doppia punta posso iniziare direttamente con i ferri circolari corti? Grazie mille
23.05.2021 - 22:08DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Anna, non può partire subito con i ferri circolari corti perchè non ci sono abbastanza maglie all'inizio per usarli; potrebbe provare con i ferri circolari con il cavo lungo e la tecnica del magic loop. Buon lavoro!
24.05.2021 - 22:06Claudia wrote:
En el delantero talla S, cuando hay 78 puntos entre marcadores, no me salen las cuentas de los puntos que hay a cada lado de los 16 puntos del cuello, me salen 28 puntos a cada lado, no 25
23.04.2021 - 00:45DROPS Design answered:
Hola Claudia. El patrón está correcto. El delantero, talla S: 16 puntos deslizados para el cuello, 6 puntos cerrados a cada lado para la forma del cuello = 12 puntos; quedan 25 puntos a cada lado = 50 puntos. Es decir, 50 +12+16= 78 puntos del delantero.
24.04.2021 - 19:31Ina wrote:
Wenn ich auf jeder Seite am halsrand 6 maschen abnehme komme ich aber nicht auf die vorgegebene maschenanzahl\r\nDie ich am Ende haben muss
18.04.2021 - 07:56DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ina, wenn Sie für den Hals abketten sollen Sie immer noch 8 Maschen bei jeder Hinreihe zunehmen, nach allen Abketten für den Hals, stricken Sie noch 6 Reihen (3 Mal 8Zunahmen) dann sollen Sie 284--386 M haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
19.04.2021 - 08:25Anna wrote:
Hi there! I'm confused about this instruction: "bind off towards the neck on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times." Trying to understand - am I binding off 2 stitches at the beginning of one row, then repeat for the next row, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the row after, repeat, then start over? Also confused about this: "Cast on 37-38-41-44-45 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side)" - does this mean I should cast on more than 41 stitches? Thanks!
25.05.2020 - 18:51DROPS Design answered:
Hi Anna, You are only binding off on the neck-side of the row - so every other row you bind off 2 stitches x 2 (so 4 rows), then bind off 1 stitch x 2 (another 4 rows). Your other question, the cast-on stitches include the edge stitches, so you cast on 41 stitches. Happy knitting!
26.05.2020 - 07:58