DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blue Mountain

Knitted DROPS jacket with pattern and shawl collar in ”Alaska”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-817
DROPS design: Pattern no X-384
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Colour no 37, dark blue:
650-700-750-850-950-1050 g
Colour no 03, light grey:
100-100-100-150-150-150 g
Colour no 55, beige:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON DUFFLE NO 520: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for 6 button holes on right band, all cast offs are done from RS. 1 button hole = P tog 5th and 6th st from mid front and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 6, 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm.
SIZE M: 6, 15, 23, 31, 39 and 47 cm.
SIZE L: 6, 15, 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm.
SIZE XL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 41 and 49 cm.
SIZE XXL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 42 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 42 and 51 cm.

PATTERN:
See diagram A-1 – the diagram shows 2 repetitions in breadth. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline at the front):
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 210-226-242-270-286-314 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with dark blue Alaska. P 1 row from WS. Then work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2/P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this until piece measures 6 cm. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, beg to cast off for BUTTON HOLES on right band – see explanation above! After rib, switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 2 sts in garter st, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (= 14 band sts), work in stocking st until 14 sts remain while AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-57-61-65-69 sts evenly (do not dec over bands), finish with P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and 2 sts in garter st = 161-173-185-209-221-245 sts. Insert a marker 44-47-50-56-59-65 sts in from each side (= 73-79-85-97-103-115 sts between markers on back piece). Move the markers upwards when working. Then work in stocking st with 14 band sts in each side towards mid front as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, work A-1 as follows: Work 14 band sts as before with dark blue, work A-1 until 15 sts remain, work 1st st in A-1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way on each side of band) and finish with 14 band sts in dark blue as before.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work next row from RS as follows: Cast off the first 13 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to beg the knit up for collar), work the rest of row. Turn and cast off the first 13 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to end the knit up for collar), work the rest of row = 135-147-159-183-195-219 sts. Now divide the piece at the markers in the sides and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 73-79-85-97-103-115 sts. Continue A-1 (when A-1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark blue until finished measurements) – AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 0-1-2-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 st 3-2-1-2-1-1 times = 63-65-67-69-71-73 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cast off the middle 17-19-19-21-23-23 sts for neck. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 22-22-23-23-23-24 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-34-37-43-46-52 sts. Continue A-1 as on back piece with 1 edge st in garter st towards mid front - AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, dec 1 st towards the neck - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every 4th row a total of 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, and on every 8th row a total of 2-3-2-3-3-3 times. After all cast offs and dec are done, 22-22-23-23-23-24 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 48-48-52-52-56-56 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with dark blue. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 6 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 9-7-9-7-9-9 sts evenly = 39-41-43-45-47-47 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Then work in stocking st. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 4½-4-3½-3-3-2½ cm a total of 9-10-11-12-13-15 times = 57-61-65-69-73-77 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm, insert a marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of sleeve). Work A-1. NOTE: St marked with arrow in diagram should be the st with marker mid on top of sleeve. When A-1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark blue until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap), cast off 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts mid under sleeve. Then work back and forth on needle until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 0-2-3-3-3-4 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm with dark blue. Knit up from RS inside 1 edge st along the neck as follows: Start mid front at the marker on right front piece, knit up up to shoulder, then along the neck and down along left front piece until marker = approx. 90 to 110 sts. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc no of sts to 118-122-126-130-138-146. Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 2 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 2 sts in garter st.
Continue like this until collar measures approx. 5 cm.
Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 130-134-138-142-150-158 sts.
Then work K over K and P over P until collar measures approx. 7 cm.
Now work as follows: Work 1 row on all sts as before and then slip the first 10 sts worked on a stitch holder, turn piece, work next row and then slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on another stitch holder. Turn piece, work the next row and slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on the first stitch holder, turn piece, work the next row and slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on the other stitch holder.
Continue like this until there are a total of 40 sts on the stitch holders in each side. Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and work 1 row as before over all 130-134-138-142-150-158 sts. NOTE: To avoid holes in every transition where sts where put on holder, slip loop before next st twisted on to left needle and work tog with first st on needle.
Cast off with K over K and P over P. Neatly fasten collar with stitches in each side towards band – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = dark blue
symbols = beige
symbols = light grey
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Paola Pedroni Kaune wrote:

He desarmado 2 veces las mangas, el rebaje de las mangas no coincide con el rebaje del cuerpo, me faltan como 10 centimetros en el contorno de la manga para poder coserlo al cuerpo. No sé si pueden aconsejarme algo, por el momento me iré probando y añadiendo filas a la labor, hasta que coincidan ambas partes. Muy lindo modelo, lamentablemente me encontré con este problema, Saludos

02.06.2022 - 00:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Paola, debido al patrón de jacquard, es posible que esta parte quede más tensa y que el ancho sea menor de lo recomendado por el patrón. En este caso, lo recomendable es aumentar cada menor número de filas (es decir, trabajar más aumentos) para tener más puntos/ más cm al llegar al largo final de la manga y que se pueda coser al cuerpo.

04.06.2022 - 19:03

country flag Carlin wrote:

Patroon graag in Nederlands

29.12.2021 - 11:34

country flag Rosy wrote:

Buonasera. Grazie per aver risposto ma non capisco...il ferro 5in blu lo lascio al diritto e il rovescio lo faccio in grigio. Come posso poi ripartire con il blu al diritto se l ho lasciato al rovescio? E cosi anche per aktri ferri. Come il 12 con il 14 ad esempio....confido in aiuto

24.10.2021 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Rosy, ha due possibilità: o si porta il filo blu sul rovescio del lavoro, intrecciandolo ogni 2 o 3 maglie, mentre lavora con il grigio, ma rischia di vedersi sul diritto del lavoro, oppure lavora con tanti gomitolini di filato che può lasciare ai lati del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

20.11.2021 - 12:07

country flag Rosy wrote:

Come devo fare al giro 4, 5, 6, con il bordo in blu? Devo avere due gomitoli per i bordi e uno per lo schema? Grazie

22.10.2021 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosy, o continua a portarsi il colore blu lungo il lavoro oppure si, deve utilizzare 2 gomitoli di blu. Buon lavoro!

24.10.2021 - 20:07

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Hallo, ich benötige dringend Hilfe.....Ich habe den Ärmel gestrickt, habe Ai fast beendet und habe die benötigte Maschenzahl erreicht. Ich habe aber große Bedenken, das der Ärmel viel zu eng ist, wenn ich ihn nach Anleitung stricke. Das vorgegebene Armloch ist viel zu groß für den engen Ärmel. Kann man den Ärmel bei diesem Modell auch direkt anstricken? Wie müsste ich dann abnehmen? Hoffentlich kann mir jemand helfen🙏

30.01.2021 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann sollte die Ärmel auch so passen. -siehe auch Maßen in der Maßskizze. Leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen aber sicher kann Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.02.2021 - 09:08

country flag Sawnuy wrote:

Sehrgeehrte Damen und Herren, Ich habe diese Anleitung schön 3 Jacke gestrickt. 2 Jacke mit Alaska und eine Jacke mit Nepal. Sie sind sehr sehr schön.. Und jetzt stricken ich die 4. Jacke. Aber ich habe wieder vergessen.. Was bedeutet das?: ( , A-1 bis noch 15 M. zu stricken sind, 1. M. in A-1 (damit das Muster vorne überein stimmt), ) Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe... Mit freundlichen Grüßen Sawnuy

05.06.2019 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sawnuy, damit das Muster symetrisch wird, muss man am Ende der Hinreihe der ersten Masche in M.1 noch stricken, dann die 14 Blendemaschen - bein den Rückreihen stricken Sie die erste Masche in M.1 dann lesen Sie M.1 links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.06.2019 - 09:50

country flag Sawnuy wrote:

Hallo,kann ich diese Jacke mit Drops Nepal auch stricken? Ich habe schon 2 Jacke mit Alaska gestrickt..Sie sind sehr schön.... und ich möchte nochmal diese Jacke stricken aber mit anderen Drops . Mit freundlichen Grüßen

13.10.2018 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sawnuy, DROPS Nepal und Alaska gehören beide der Garngruppe C, so können Sie Nepal auch hier benutzen - Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Wahl der Garne, hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen - den Garnumrechner können Sie gerne benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.10.2018 - 08:55

country flag Grammatico wrote:

Pourquoi ne pas mettre en Français s'il vous plait. Ce serait déjà plus facile, votre modèle est magnifique et j'aimerais pouvoir le faire.

07.06.2018 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grammatico, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, changez simplement la langue en cliquant sur la flèche sous la photo et sélectionnez "français". Bon tricot!

07.06.2018 - 10:56

country flag Evelyn wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Rückenteil: "GLEICHZEITIG auf beiden Seite für das Armloch abk.: 0-1-2-2-3-4 Mal 3 M., 1-1-1-3-3-4 Mal 2 M. und 3-2-1-2-1-1 Mal 1 M." Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich für Größe L so vorgehe: 1. und 2. R.: die ersten 3 M und die letzten 3 M abketten. 3. R.: die ersten 2 M und die letzten 2 M abketten. 4. R.: die erste und letzte M abketten. Vielen Dank vorab!

11.04.2018 - 10:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Evelyn, in der Größe L sollen Sie: 3 M 2 x, 2 M x 1 und 1 Mx 1 auf beiden Seiten abketten, dh Reihe 1 bis 4: die ersten 3 M abketten, R 5 + 6: die ersten 2 M abketten und R 7 + 8: die erste Masche abketten = 18 M werden insgesamt abgekettet (= 9 auf beiden Seiten), es waren 85 M - 18 = 67 M bleiben übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.04.2018 - 13:42

country flag Evelyn wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Rückenteil: "GLEICHZEITIG auf beiden Seite für das Armloch abk.: 0-1-2-2-3-4 Mal 3 M., 1-1-1-3-3-4 Mal 2 M. und 3-2-1-2-1-1 Mal 1 M." Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich für Größe L so vorgehe: 1. und 2. R.: die ersten 3 M und die letzten 3 M abketten. 3. R.: die ersten 2 M und die letzten 2 M abketten. 4. R.: die erste und letzte M abketten. Vielen Dank vorab!

11.04.2018 - 10:54