DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Dining Elegance

Crochet table mat and serviette ring in DROPS Delight and DROPS Alpaca. Theme: Christmas

DROPS Extra 0-728
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-049
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Measurements table mat: approx 42 x 32 cm

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 3620, red
And use: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 13, red/orange/grey mix

1 table mat weighs approx 110 g.
1 serviette ring weighs approx 10 g.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm – or size needed to obtain 18 sts in width x 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm with 1 thread of each yarn.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on each round by 3 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

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TABLE MAT:
Crochet from the middle out with 1 thread of each yarn on hook size 4 mm.
CAST ON + ROUND 1: Crochet 18 ch, turn, skip first ch and crochet 3 dc in next ch, then crochet 1 dc in each of the 15 next ch, in last ch crochet 3 dc, then crochet 1 dc in each ch on other side of ch-row, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round. There are now a total of 36 dc around.
Place marker in 1st, 3rd, 19th and 21st dc (= corners).
ROUND 2: 1 ch, then crochet 1 dc in each dc, but in the corners crochet 3 dc = 44 dc.
ROUND 3: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc (= in corner), 3 ch, 1 tr in same dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc (= the corner), 3 ch, 1 tr in same dc, * 1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc *, repeat from *-* along the long side to the next corner, 3 ch, 1 tr in same dc, 1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch, 1 tr in next dc (= the corner), 3 ch, 1 tr in same dc, repeat from *-* along the long side to beg of round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 26 ch-loops.
ROUND 4: READ CROCHET TIP! Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr around each ch – in the corners crochet 5 tr around each ch-loop = 68 tr.
ROUND 5: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 3 tr in each corner = 76 tr.
ROUND 6: Crochet as round 3, that is 1 tr in every other tr with 1 ch in between, in tr in the corners crochet: 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr = 42 ch-loops.
ROUND 7: Crochet as round 4 = 100 tr.
ROUND 8: Crochet as round 5 = 108 tr.
ROUND 9: * 5 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* all the way around, but in tr in all the corners crochet: 1 dc, 5 ch, 1 dc in same tr = 58 ch-loops.
ROUND 10: Crochet sl st to middle of first ch-loop, * 2 ch, 1 dc around next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* all the way around, but around the ch-loops in the corners crochet: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc = 62 ch-loops.
ROUND 11: Crochet 1 tr in each dc and 1 tr around each ch-loop – but around the ch-loop in the corners crochet 3 tr = 132 tr.
ROUND 12: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 3 tr in tr in each corner = 140 tr.
ROUND 13: * 5 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr before the corner, 7 ch, skip 1 tr (= in the corner), 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* all the way around, finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round = 70 ch-loops.
ROUND 14: Crochet as round 10 = 74 ch-loops.
ROUND 15: 1 dc around first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* all the way around (do not crochet any extra sts in the corners on this round, in each corner there will now be 1 dc) = 74 ch-loops.
ROUND 16: Crochet sl st to middle of first ch-loop, * 2 ch, 1 dc around next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* all the way around, but in the corners crochet 5 ch instead of 2 = 74 ch-loops.
ROUND 17: Crochet 1 tr in each dc and 1 tr around each ch-loop – but around the ch-loop in the corners crochet 5 tr = 164 tr.
ROUND 18: Crochet as round 13 = 82 ch-loops.
ROUND 19: Crochet as round 14 = 86 ch-loops.
ROUND 20 (= picot edge): * 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* all the way around = 86 picots, cut and fasten thread.

SERVIETTE RING:
Crochet 27 loose ch with 1 thread of each yarn on hook size 4 mm.
ROW 1: Skip the 3 first ch and crochet 1 tr in each of the next 24 ch, turn work.
ROW 2: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 12 ch-loops, turn work.
ROW 3: 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch (replace first tr by 3 ch) = 25 tr, turn work.
ROW 4: Crochet as row 2.
ROW 5: Crochet as row 3.
ROW 6 (= picot edge): * 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 8 picots, cut and fasten thread.
Crochet 1 picot edge in the same way along cast on row. Sew the serviette ring together edge to edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.04.2019
Correction - ROUND 11: Crochet 1 tr in each dc and 1 tr around each ch-loop – but around the ch-loop in the corners crochet 3 tr = 132 tr.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Lee Ann wrote:

I’ve enjoyed this pattern but now I’m stuck. ROUND 19 - crochet as round 14 Well that just sends me to round 10. Is that correct? Because doing the stitches as 10 states DOES NOT WORK.. Pleasee help asap SUGGESTION- place correction notes at TOP of pattern so it’s not missed, as I did when I printed it.

27.09.2023 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lee Ann, the corrections notes are for those who printed the pattern before it was corrected. The online version is now correct so, if you printed the pattern after the correction was made (see date in the correction), then your version of the pattern should be fine. On the other hand, the instructions in round 10 are expanded, so that you work over as many chain-loops as necessary (the instructions state: repeat from *-* all the way around). Rounds 9-10, 13-14 and 18-19 are all worked in the same way, just with different number of stitches, if you could work the previous rounds then round 19 should be correct as well. Happy crocheting!

30.09.2023 - 20:37

country flag Cinzia Di Nunzio wrote:

Ho seguito lo schema correttamente ma il risultato non è lo stesso della foto Da quello che ho visto il risultato è costituito da archetti di catenelle mentre le spiegazioni portano a dei quadratini Non ho capito cosa sbaglio

20.04.2021 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cinzia, è sicura di aver lavorato correttamente ATTORNO alle maglie come indicato nel modello? Per un'assistenza più personalizzata, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

20.04.2021 - 18:12

country flag Rebecca Groseclose wrote:

Round 11 says to crochet 1 dc into 1 dc, but row 10 does not contain any dcs. What am I supposed to do? Should it be to crochet 1 dc in each sc and one dc in each ch space?

11.01.2019 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Groseclose, you are right on round 11 you are supposed to crochet 1 dc in each sc from previous round (+ around each ch-space). Pattern will be edited asap. Thanks for your feedback. Happy crocheting!

14.01.2019 - 08:58

country flag Barbara Albitz wrote:

In der Beschreibung zur Arbeit des Serviettenringes ist ein Schreibfehler. In der Arbeitsanleitung für die erste Reihe muss es heißen: .....und danach je ein Stäbchen in die nächsten 24 Lm häkeln. Im Original steht auch 24 Lm.

21.10.2013 - 10:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, Sie haben völlig Recht. Da ist unserer damaligen Übersetzerin ein Fehler passiert. Vielen Dank für die Rückmeldung, wir haben es gleich korrigiert.

21.10.2013 - 13:43

Youmna wrote:

It est ecris de metter des marquers dans les 1, 3, 9, 19, 21 ms du 1er rang. Ca fait 5coins!? Pouver-vous m'expilquer comment fair parce-que je n'arrive pas ou je dois fair l'augmatation. Merci beaucoup

01.01.2013 - 06:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Youmna, effectivement, on met un marqueurs dans la 1ère, 3ème, 19ème et 21 ème m seulement = 4 coins. La correction a été faite, merci. Bon crochet !

02.01.2013 - 10:58

country flag Unnur wrote:

Hej Skulle det ikke være 24 st (i stedet for 25 st) i servietteringen?

16.12.2010 - 15:55

country flag DROPs Design DE wrote:

Stimmt genau, vielen Dank! Ich habe es gleich korrigiert.

11.12.2010 - 21:21

country flag Maria wrote:

8.R.: Wie die 5.R. und nicht wie die 4.R.

11.12.2010 - 14:51