DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Islen

Knitted DROPS Jacket in ”Alpaca” with stripy yoke in ”Fabel”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 109-52
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Alpaca
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 517, grey
and use: DROPS Fabel
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour no 905, black/white mix

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st with Alpaca or Fabel = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 2.5 mm – for rib and garter st.

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm – for border.

DROPS Silver button no 534: 7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle): K all rows.
Knitting tip: If your knitting tension is too tight, the raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You may compensate for this by working 1 extra row without dec in between dec.
Changing yarn tip: Change yarn mid back, and do not cut the threads for each change.

Jacket: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 416-452-494-542-602-656 sts (includes 12 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca (many sts so the rib won’t be tight-fitting). P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from the RS: 12 garter sts (front band), * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 12 garter sts (front band). When piece measures 3 cm dec 1 st in each P-section and repeat the dec when piece measures 6 cm = 286-310-338-370-410-446 sts. Continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 10 cm change to needle size 3 mm. K 1 row from the RS, at the same time dec 66-74-78-86-102-114 sts evenly = 220-236-260-284-308-332 sts. Continue in stocking st with 12 garter sts each side on front bands. Remember the knitting tension! Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) each side, 61-65-71-77-83-89 sts in from mid front (to mark the sides), back piece = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts. Continue until piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm and now cast off 12 sts each side (i.e. 6 sts on each side of both MT) = 196-212-236-260-284-308 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.
Sleeves: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 95-95-100-105-110-115 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. K 1 round and continue in rib as follows: * K2, P3 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm dec 1 st in each P-section = 76-76-80-84-88-92 sts. Continue in rib, K2/P2m. When rib measures 8 cm change to needle size 3 mm. K 1 round, at the same time dec 16-16-20-18-22-20 sts evenly = 60-60-60-66-66-72 sts. Insert a MT at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st on each side of MT on every 3.5-3-2-2-2-2 cm a total of 11-13-16-16-17-17 times = 82-86-92-98-100-106 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-47-47-47 cm – less on the larger sizes because of wider shoulder – cast off 12 sts mid under arm (= 6 sts on each side of MT) = 70-74-80-86-88-94 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.
Yoke: Slip sleeves in on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 336-360-396-432-460-496 sts. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and insert 10-10-10-10-11-11 MT in piece as follows: The first MT after 33-36-36-40-40-43 sts, then the remaining 9-9-9-9-10-10 MT with 30-32-36-39-38-41 sts between each = 33-36-36-41-40-43 sts after the last MT. Work yoke as follows: See Knitting tip and Changing thread tip:* 6 rows garter st - see above – with Fabel, 2 rows garter st with Alpaca *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. Work 5-5-2-1-4-1 rows without dec and then dec 1 st to the right and to the left alternately of each MT on every 4th row a total of 20-21-23-25-25-27 times = 136-150-166-182-185-199 sts.
Neckline: K 1 row from the RS with Alpaca, at the same time dec 6-20-32-44-43-53 sts evenly = 130-130-134-138-142-146 sts. Now continue as follows to make neckline higher mid back with Alpaca. K all rows.
Work next row as follows from WS: work 75-75-77-79-81-83 sts, turn piece and work 20 sts on return row. Turn piece and work 30 sts. Turn piece and work 40 sts. Turn piece and work 50 sts. Turn piece and work 60 sts. Turn piece and work 70 sts. Turn piece and work 80 sts. Turn piece and work 90 sts. Turn piece and work 100 sts. Turn piece and work 110 sts. Turn piece and work 120 sts. Turn piece and work all sts on row. K 6 rows on all sts and cast off.
Crochet border: Crochet a border round the opening of jacket with Alpaca on crochet hook size 3 mm as follows – beg at the bottom of right front piece, round the neck and down along left front piece: 1 dc, * 2 ch, skip approx 0.5 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-*.
Assembly: Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons in transition between front band and stocking st on left front piece. Place the top button right under the neckline, and the bottom one just over the rib, and distribute the remaining buttons evenly between these. Use the crochet border as buttonhole loops.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.07.2008
DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 2.5 mm – for rib and garter st.
Jacket: ...on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca (many sts so the rib won’t be tight-fitting). P 1 row from WS...

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Maiken Jacobsen wrote:

Hei. Hvordan lager jeg hull til knappene?

12.11.2023 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maiken, Knappene kneppes i heklekanten. God fornøyelse!

13.11.2023 - 06:50

country flag Marion wrote:

Hallo. Zou het Islen vest ook als trui gebreid kunnen worden of als vest, maar dan net knoopsgaten met dan een extra bies?

02.01.2023 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

Ja, dat zou kunnen. In dat geval brei je de steken van de extra bies niet aan de voorpanden. Voor een trui brei je op het voorpand evenveel steken als op het achterpand.

04.01.2023 - 21:10

country flag Marion wrote:

Hallo. Is het ook mogelijk om i.p.v.l usjes voor de knopen knoopsgaten met een ribbelsteek, net als onder de pas, te maken. Vriendelijk dank.

08.04.2022 - 17:06

country flag Kerstin Storbacka-Kullbäck wrote:

Det vore bra om ni skulle skriva ut i mönstret att i oket börjar och slutar varven på mitten. Likaså då man maskar av för ärmhål mitt under ärmen att det görs från avigsidan. Ty ärmarna stickas in från framsidan.

14.04.2019 - 17:14

country flag Kerstin wrote:

När det står att man skall byta tråd mitt bak på arbetet..... ja fattar inte det. Är det tänkt att man börjar och slutar varven där eller hur gör man? Låter enkelt men jag får inte det att gå ihop.

04.04.2019 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, detta tips gäller då man stickar oket. Trådbytet syns minst på det färdiga plagget då man byter tråd mitt bak. Varvet börjar då också mitt bak.

12.04.2019 - 12:37

country flag Turid wrote:

I str xl så skal en (etter bråtet) ha 130 m til ryggen, og 77m til hver av sidene. Det betyr at der er flere masker i forstykkene. De to stolpene utgjør 12 masker ekstra på hver side, altså 6m på hver side når stolpene overlapper hverandre. Er det rett at bakstykket skal ha ferre masker?

08.08.2018 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Turid. Ja det stemmer at stolpemaskene kommer i tillegg på forstykkene, og at det derfor er ferre masker på bakstykket. Dette får ikke noe å si for hvordan plagget blir når det er ferdig. God fornøyelse.

20.08.2018 - 12:51

country flag Oddny Mokkelbost wrote:

Har merket jakken med 10 merker. Går ut i fra at det skall felles der , men når !!! Leser mønsteret opp og ned men finner ikje noe om rundfellingen. Så her sitter jeg ????🤔🤔

03.10.2017 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Oddny, jo det står nederst under BÆRESTYKKET: Strikk 5-5-2-1-4-1 p uten fellinger, deretter felles det 1 m på vekselsvis høyre og venstre side av hver merketråd på hver 4.p totalt 20-21-23-25-25-27 ganger = 136-150-166-182-185-199 m. God fornøjelse!

05.10.2017 - 09:06

country flag Lotta Nordqvist wrote:

Hej! Har börjat sticka mudden på koftan och inser att det är väldigt mycket maskor. Jag har förstått att jag sedan ska minska maskantalet men blir lite orolig att inte mudden ska sitta åt utan stå ut som en liten volang? Mycket tacksam för snabbt svar! Hälsningar Lotta

12.03.2017 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte. Nej, det burde den ikke göre. Ribben traekker sig mere sammen en almindelig glatstrik, saa derfor tager du ogsaa ind naar du er faerdig (saa glatstrikdelen faar samme bredde som ribben - ellers ville den pose ud over ribben). Og er din strikkefasthed korrekt, saa burde der som sagt ikke gaa noget galt :)

13.03.2017 - 12:15

country flag Jasmin wrote:

Mi interessava qualcosa sulle sprone.se faccio 23volte diminuzioni per taglia L.Non restano 166 maglie ma tanto meno ,per favore se potete aiutarmi,grazie

09.07.2016 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Jasmin. Quando inizia lo sprone ha 396 m . Inserisce 10 segnapunti. Deve diminuire 1 m ad ogni segnapunto per 23 volte. Quindi in tutto vengono diminuite 230 m. Rimangono 396 – 230 = 166 m. La prima volta che diminuisce, diminuisce sempre prima dei segnapunti, la seconda volta diminuisce dopo i segnapunti, la terza volta prima e così via. Buon lavoro!

09.07.2016 - 23:12

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour, au niveau de l'encolure, taille M, faut-il diminuer 32 ou 35 mailles (vous indiquez 325)? Ensuite, il faut "diminuer 1 m alternativement à droite et à gauche de chaque marqueur", c'est-à-dire un rang on diminue tout à gauche et le suivant tout à droite ou dans le même rang il faut diminuer à gauche et à droite des marqueurs? Merci pour votre aide!

10.03.2016 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, il faut espacer les marqueurs de 32 m, la correction a été faite, merci. C'est exact pour les diminutions, au 1er rang, on diminue 1 m à droite de chaque marqueur, puis au rang de diminution suivant, on diminue à gauche de chaque marqueur et on continue ainsi, 1 fois à droite, 1 fois à gauche des marqueurs. Bon tricot!

10.03.2016 - 09:01